Fats

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Fats (oils and fats) are the essential ingredient of soap and their properties depend on the quality of the soap. At the beginning of each prescription, we begin by knowing the quantities and types of fat we will use. By saponification factor (SAP from table), for each fat we can calculate the required amount of base (either sodium or potassium). Apart from the saponification factor, we examine and select other properties of certain fat, eg saturation, soap, skin care and hardness.



















What does a saturation or iodine value mean? This is in fact a measure of the saturation of an individual oil or fat. It is a measure of how much iodine centigrade can collapse per gram of oil or fat. Saturated fat has low iodine value and unsaturated fat has high iodine value. There are a few exceptions, but usually iodine fat is made with softer soaps. Fats with low iodine values give stronger soaps. To make the soap hard enough it takes 50-60% of saturated fat. When combining different fat, keep in mind this fact as well.

Conditioning - refers to the ingredients that remain on the skin, softens, nourishes and helps maintain moisture. The skin becomes smooth and soft.

Lather - usually the soap and sparkiness is observed. Rich soap means sparklingness, which decreases into a more stable, more creamy state.

When making soap you do not have to insist on cold pressed or virgin oils. Such oils are expensive. Refined oils have the advantage of better reacting with the base. Leave the quality oil for a good meal.

LipidsSAPNAOH (oz.)KOH (oz.)INCI Name
Acai Oil, Organic175 - 1950.1320.185Euterpe Oleracea (Acai) Fruit Oil
Almond Butter, Sweet90 - 1400.0820.115Prunus amygdalus dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Almond Oil, Sweet190 - 2000.1390.195Prunus amygdalus dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil
Aloe Vera Butter220 - 2600.1710.24Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil and Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Amla Oil150 - 3500.1780.25Emblica Officinalis (Amla) Fruit Extract and Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil
Apricot Kernel Butter130 - 1450.0980.138Prunus armeniacae (Apricot) Kernel Oil
Apricot Kernel Oil180 - 2000.1350.19Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil
Apricot Kernel Oil, Organic185 - 1950.1350.19Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil
Argan Oil, Virgin Organic180 - 2000.1350.19Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil
Avocado Butter177 - 1980.1340.188Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Avocado Oil177 - 1980.1340.188Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil
Avocado Oil, Organic185 - 2000.1380.193Persea gratissima (Avocado) Oil
Avocado Oil, Refined185 - 2300.1480.208Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil
Avocado Oil, Virgin177 - 1980.1340.188Persea gratissima (Avocado) Oil
Babassu Oil245 - 2560.1790.251Orbignya Oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil
Baobab Oil180 - 2000.1350.19Adansonia Digitata (Baobab) Seed Oil
Baobab Oil, Unrefined140 - 2050.1230.173Adansonia Digitata (Baobab) Seed Oil
Beef Tallow1960.140.196
Black Cumin Seed Oil185 - 2050.1390.195Nigella sativa (Black Cumin) Seed Oil
Black Cumin Seed Oil, Organic185 - 2050.1390.195Nigella Sativa (Black Cumin) Seed Oil
Black Currant Seed Oil185 - 1950.1350.19Ribes Nigrum (Blackcurrant) Seed Oil
Borage Oil175 - 1960.1330.186Borago officinalis (Borage) Seed Oil
Borage Oil, Organic, Refined, 20% GLA185 - 1950.1350.19Borago Officinalis (Borage) Seed Oil
Borage Oil, Organic, Virgin, 20% GLA185 - 1950.1350.19Borago Officinalis (Borage) Seed Oil
Borage Oil, Refined, 20% GLA185 - 1950.1350.19Borago Officinalis (Borage) Seed Oil
Borage Oil, Refined, 22% GLA185 - 1950.1350.19Borago Officinalis (Borage) Seed Oil
Borage Oil, Virgin, 20% GLA185 - 1950.1350.19Borago Officinalis (Borage) Seed Oil
Brazil Nut Oil, Organic186 - 1960.1360.191Bertholletia excelsa (Brazil) Nut Oil
Buriti Oil185 - 2400.1520.213Mauritia Flexuosa (Buriti) Fruit Oil
Camelina Oil185 - 1970.1360.191Camelina sativa (Camelina) Seed Oil
Candelilla Wax Pellets43 - 650.0390.054Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax
Canola Oil1730.1230.173
Caprylic Capric Triglyceride MCT325 - 3450.2390.335Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Caprylic Capric Triglycerides MCT Oil325 - 3450.2390.335Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides
Carnauba Wax Flakes78 - 950.0620.087Carnauba (Copernicia cerifera) Wax
Carrot Oil1900.1350.19Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil (and) Daucus carota sativa (Carrot) Root Extract (and) Tocopherol
Castor Oil, Black176 - 1860.1290.181Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil
Castor Oil, Black, Light176 - 1860.1290.181Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil
Castor Oil, Jamaican Black177 - 1850.1290.181Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil
Cherry Kernel Oil180 - 2000.1350.19Prunus Avium (Cherry) Kernel Oil
Cocoa Butter, Deodorized188 - 1980.1380.193Theobroma cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter
Cocoa Butter, Pure Prime Pressed188 - 2000.1380.194Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter
Cocoa Butter, Ultra Refined188 - 2000.1380.194Theobroma cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter
Cocoa Oil173 - 1880.1290.181Theobroma cacao (Cocoa) Oil
Coconut Oil, Organic250 - 2650.1840.258Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil
Coconut Oil, Organic, Virgin250 - 2650.1840.258Cocos nucifera (Coconut) Oil
Coconut Oil, RBD250 - 2640.1830.257Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil
Coconut Oil, Virgin, Organic248 - 2680.1840.258Cocos Nucifera (Virgin Coconut) Oil
Coffee Bean Butter175 - 2000.1340.188Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Oil
Corn Oil1900.1350.19
Cottonseed Oil1920.1370.192
Cucumber Seed Oil180 - 1900.1320.185Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Oil
Cupuacu Butter, Refined210 - 2350.1590.223Theobroma Grandiflorum (Cupuacu) Butter
Cupuacu Butter, Ultra Refined210 - 2350.1590.223Theobroma grandiflorum (Cupuacu) Butter
Deer Tallow1950.1390.195
Emu Oil, Clear AEA Certified185 - 2000.1380.193Emu Oil
Evening Primrose Oil180 - 1950.1340.188Oenothera biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil
Evening Primrose Oil Refined 9% GLA180 - 1950.1340.188Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil
Flax Seed Oil186 - 1960.1360.191Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil
Flax Seed Oil, Organic186 - 1960.1360.191Linum Usitatissimum (Flax) Seed Oil
Fractionated Coconut Oil325 - 3450.2390.335Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil
Goat Tallow1950.1390.195
Grape Seed Oil180 - 2000.1350.19Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Tocopherol
Grape Seed Oil, Chardonnay176 - 1940.1320.185Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil
Grape Seed Oil, Organic185 - 2000.1380.193Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil
Grape Seed Oil, Riesling185 - 2000.1380.193Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil
Hazelnut Oil187 - 1950.1360.191Corylus Avellana (Hazel) Seed Oil
Hemp Seed Butter175 - 2000.1340.188Cannabis sativa Seed Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Hemp Seed Oil190 - 1950.1380.193Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Seed Oil
Hemp Seed Oil Refined188 - 1940.1360.191Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Seed Oil
Hemp Seed Oil, Organic190 - 1950.1380.193Cannabis sativa (Hemp) Seed Oil
Hemp Seed Oil, Virgin188 - 1940.1360.191Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Seed Oil
Hibiscus Oil, Organic188 - 2000.1380.194Hibiscus Sabdariffa (Hibiscus) Seed Oil
High Linoleic Safflower Oil180 - 1950.1340.188Carthamus tinctorus (Safflower) Oil
Illipe Butter188 - 2000.1380.194Shorea stenoptera (Illipe) Seed Butter
Jojoba Oil, Golden, Organic86 - 960.0650.091Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Jojoba Oil, Natural85 - 980.0660.092Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Jojoba, Clear90 - 930.0660.092Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Jojoba, Organic, Clear90 - 950.0660.093Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Karanja Oil, Organic186 - 1960.1360.191Pongamia Glabra (Karanja) Seed Oil
Kokum Butter187 - 1930.1350.19Garcinia indica (Kokum) Seed Butter
Kukui Nut Oil185 - 1950.1350.19Aleurites Moluccana (Kukui) Nut Oil
Lanolin Oil90 - 1100.0710.1Lanolin Oil
Lard1930.1380.193
Laurel Berry Oil198 - 2060.1440.202Laurus Nobilis (Laurel) Oil
Lecithin Liquid180 - 2000.1350.19Lecithin
Macadamia Nut Butter175 - 2000.1340.188Macadamia ternifolia Seed Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Macadamia Nut Oil190 - 2000.1390.195Macadamia Integrifolia (Macadamia) Nut Oil
Macadamia Nut Oil, Organic190 - 2000.1390.195Macadamia ternifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil
Mango Butter183 - 1980.1360.191Mangifera indica (Mango) Seed Butter
Mango Butter, Refined185 - 1950.1350.19Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter
Mango Oil (Olein)180 - 1950.1340.188Mangifera indica (Mango) Seed Oil
Manketti Oil190 - 2050.1410.198Schinziophyton rautanenii (Manketti) Oil
Maracuja Oil Passionfruit, Virgin150 - 2100.1280.18Passiflora Edulis (Passionfruit) Seed Oil
Marula Oil, Virgin188 - 1990.1380.194Sclerocarya Birrea (Marula) Kernel Oil
Meadowfoam Oil1690.120.169Limnanthes alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil
Meadowfoam Seed Oil160 - 1750.120.168Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil
Monoi de Tahiti Oil240 - 2700.1820.255Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil (and) Gardenia Tahitensis (Tiare) Flower Extract (and) Tocopherol (and) Helianthus Annus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Moringa Oil185 - 2050.1390.195Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil
Murumuru Butter245 - 2600.180.253Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter
Mustard Oil1720.1230.172
Neem Oil1970.140.197Azadirachta indica (Neem) Oil
Niger-Seed Oil1890.1350.189
Nilotica Shea Butter, Organic185 - 1950.1350.19Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Seed Butter
Oat Oil185 - 2000.1380.193Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil
Olive Butter175 - 2000.1340.188Olea europea (Olive) Seed Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Olive Oil184 - 1960.1350.19Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil
Olive Oil, Extra Virgin, Organic184 - 1960.1350.19Olea europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil
Organic Evening Primrose Oil180 - 1950.1340.188Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil
Organic Oil: Neem190 - 1990.1390.195Azadirachta Indica (Neem) Kernel Oil
Organic Rose Hip Seed Oil, Refined175 - 1950.1320.185Rosa Canina (Rose Hip) Seed Oil
Organic Virgin Hemp Seed Oil188 - 1940.1360.191Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Seed Oil
Palm Oil190 - 2050.1410.198Elaeis guineensis (Palm) Oil
Passionfruit Seed Oil, Organic187 - 1940.1360.191Passiflora Edulis (Passionfruit) Seed Oil
Peach Kernel Oil185 - 1950.1350.19Prunus Persica (Peach) Kernel Oil
Peanut Oil1900.1350.19
Pecan Oil186 - 1940.1350.19Algooquian pacaan (Pecan) Nut Oil
Pequi Oil, Refined190 - 2150.1450.203Caryocar Braziliensis (Pequi) Fruit Oil
Perilla Oil185 - 2000.1380.193Perilla ocymoides (Perilla) Seed Oil
Perilla Seed Oil, Organic189 - 1970.1380.193Perilla Frutescens (Perilla) Seed Oil
Pistachio Nut Butter175 - 2000.1340.188Pistacia Vera Seed Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Pomace Olive Oil1900.1350.19Olea europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil
Pomegranate Seed Oil1850.1320.185Punica granatum linn (Pomegranate) Oil
Pomegranate Seed Oil, Organic1850.1320.185Punica granatum linn (Pomegranate) Oil
Pomegranate Seed Oil, Organic, Virgin182 - 1920.1330.187Punica Granatum Linn (Pomegranate) Seed Oil
Pomegranate Seed Oil, Virgin182 - 1920.1330.187Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Seed Oil
Poppy Seed Oil1960.140.196Oleum Papaveris (Poppy) Seed Oil
Prickly Pear Seed Oil, Organic180 - 1900.1320.185Opuntia Ficus Indica (Prickly Pear) Seed Oil
Pumpkin Seed Oil, Organic, Virgin188 - 1980.1380.193Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Oil
Pumpkin Seed Oil, Refined188 - 1980.1380.193Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Oil
Rapeseed Oil1750.1250.175
Red Raspberry Seed Oil1880.1340.188Rubus Idaeus (Red Raspberry) Seed Oil
Red Raspberry Seed Oil, Organic1880.1340.188Rubus Idaeus (Red Raspberry) Seed Oil
Rice Bran Oil185 - 1950.1350.19Oryza sativa (Rice) Bran Oil
Rice Bran Oil, CP180 - 1900.1320.185Oryza sativa (Rice) Bran Oil
Rice Bran Oil, Organic180 - 1900.1320.185Oryza sativa (Rice) Bran Oil
Rose Hip Seed Oil, Virgin175 - 1950.1320.185Rosa Moschata (Rose Hip) Seed Oil
Rosehip Oil185 - 1930.1350.189Rosa Canina / Rosa Rubiginosa (Rose Hip) Seed Oil
Rosehip Seed Oil, Organic185 - 1930.1350.189Rosa Canina / Rosa Rubiginosa (Rose Hip) Seed Oil
Sacha Inchi Oil, Organic180 - 2100.1390.195Plukenetia Volubilis (Sacha Inchi) Oil
Safflower Oil, Organic, High Oleic, Refined186 - 1980.1370.192Carthamus tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil
Seabuckthorn Berry Total CO2 Extract180 - 1950.1340.188Hippophae Rhamnoides (Seabuckthorn) Fruit Extract
Sesame Oil188 - 1950.1370.192Sesamum indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil
Sesame Oil, Organic188 - 1980.1380.193Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil
Shea Butter170 - 1900.1280.18Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Fruit
Shea Butter, Organic Crushed & Refined170 - 1900.1280.18Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Fruit Butter
Shea Oil170 - 1950.130.183Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract and Citric Acid (0.001% added for stability)
Shortening, Vegetable1900.1350.19
Soybean Oil180 - 2000.1350.19Glycine soja (Soybean) Oil
Soybean Oil, Organic189 - 1950.1370.192Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
Stearic Acid, Palm-Based208 - 2130.150.211Stearic Acid
Strawberry Seed Oil170 - 2100.1350.19Fragaria Ananassa (Strawberry) Seed Oil
Sunflower Oil, High Oleic1910.1360.191Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) Oil
Sunflower Oil, Refined Organic188 - 1940.1360.191Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Sweet Almond Oil, Refined184 - 1960.1350.19Prunus dulcis (Sweet Almond) Kernel Oil
Sweet Almond Oil, Winterized184 - 1960.1350.19Prunus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil
Tamanu Foraha Oil185 - 2050.1390.195Calophyllum Inophyllum (Tamanu) Oil
Ungurahui Oil, Unrefined188 - 1980.1380.193Oenocarpus Bataua (Ungurahui) Oil
Virgin Coconut Cream Oil248 - 2650.1830.257Cocos nucifera (Virgin Coconut) Oil
Walnut Oil189 - 1970.1380.193Juglans Regia (Walnut) Seed Oil
Watermelon Seed Oil188 - 1950.1370.192Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Seed Oil
Wheatgerm Oil180 - 1950.1340.188Triticum vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil
Yangu Cape Chestnut Oil185 - 2000.1380.193Calodendrum capense (Cape chestnut) Oil
Fats by composition
There is another way of classifying the fat, which is according to their composition. Fats consist of several different fatty acids each of which has certain properties. Fatty acids that prevail will give dominant properties. The fatty acids found in the oils are: lauric acid, linoleic acid, myristic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, ricinoleic acid, stearic acid.

Fatty Acid                        Soothing Soap Properties
lauric acid                         hardness, good clean, rich foam
linoleic acid                       nourishes the skin
myristic acid                     hardness, good cleansing, rich soap
oleic acid                          nourishes the skin
palmitic acid                     hardness, stable foam
ricinoleic acid                   nourishes the skin, rich and stable foam
stearic acid                       hardness, stable foam

Fats with most oleic acid are: almond oil, apricot oil, peach, hazelnut, avocado oil, cocoa butter, fat, shea butter, macadamia oil, olive oil.
Fats with most linoleic acids are: grape seed oil, apricot, peach, cotton, hemp, sesame, soy, corn, safflower oil, corn oil, sunflower oil.
Lauric acid has plenty of palm oil seeds, coconut oil, babassu oil.
Palmitic acid is naturally dominant in palm oil, and ricinoleic acid in castor oil.
Soap with too much laurine and / or myristic acid can irritate the skin. Particles of such soap are too aggressive not only against impurities, but also against the grease of the protective layer of the skin. Such is eg coconut oil and palm oil seeds and their amount in the recipe should not be more than 30-35%.
The capability of a soap molecule to partially attract fat dirt particles lies in cleansing. At one end of the chain, such molecules attract water, and the other part of the greasy particles of impurities. That's why you need to sweep the soap together with the water on the skin. When washed, all wash together. Some types of soaps are simply fatigue-aggressive and this is the case with soaps with a higher proportion of lauric and / or myristic acid (palm oil, coconut oil). The other oils are mostly clean and not so aggressive. Here's how some of the most commonly used oils look like.

Castor oil

Ricinoleic 90%
Linoleic 3-4%
Oleic 3-4%

Grape seed oil

Linoleic 58-78%
Oleic 12-28%
Palmitic 5-11%
Stearic 3-6%


Palm oil

Palmitic 43-45%
Oleic 38-40%
Linoleic 9-11%
Stearic 4-5%


Sesame oil

Linoleic 39-47%
Oleic 37-42%
Palmitic 8-11%
Stearic 4-6%


Fat

Oleic 46%
Palmitic 28%
Stearic 13%
Linoleic 6%
Myristic 1%


Palm oil seed oil

Lauric 47%
Oleic 18%
Myristic 14%
Palmitic 9%


Coconut oil

Lauric 39-54%
Myristic 15-23%
Palmitic 6-11%
Oleic 4-11%
Stearic 1-4%
Linoleic 1-2%


Sunflower oil

Linoleic 70%
Oleic 16%
Palmitic 7%
Stearic 4%


Olive oil

Oleic 63-81%
Palmitic 7-14%
Linoleic 5-15%
Stearic 3-5%



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